Vin de France
If you like natural wines, you may have seen, on some french bottles, the words “Vin de France” or just the 3 letters, VDF. It is a designation, the last level of wine classification after " Appellation d’origine protégée" and “indication géographique protégée”.
Vin de France was created in 2010 with two purposes, the simplification of the old classification system and to replace the old “Vin de Table” designation while giving winemakers more liberty to experiment and innovate.
There is a paradox, why well knows winemakers use an appellation originally made for cheap and high-yield table wines? Wine consumption in France and elsewhere changed after 2000. Fewer people drink wine every day for lunch today compared to the 70s. The “Vin de table” is less prevalent. The taste changed too and a demand for more innovative wines emerged.
AOC and IGP are great, they give specifications and rules with a link to a territory, “Terroir” in french, but it is also a constraint. Think about the Côte du Rhône appellation. The rules of this appellation state that red wine must be a blend of at least 2 grape varieties, including Grenache noire. Appellations, if they can help to get some reputation, they limit the liberty of winemakers.
The Vin de France demonization is more flexible, the only rules are the respect of European laws (authorized grape varieties, the winemaking process, safety measures…) and the name of wine should not collide with a protected appellation (no wine could be called Champagne or Chianti). In other words, liberty, and creativity. Winemakers can do whatever they want, carbonic maceration in the Bordeaux region, or use Macabeu in Loire valley. The only limitation are winemakers’ imaginations. It is a success, 341 million bottles have been produced in France in 2021.
It is not a surprise that some natural winemakers in prestigious appellations create some wine under the VDF demonization. It is not uncommon to find bottles over 50 euros.
Choosing a natural wine in the Vin de France demonization could be complex when you don’t know the winemaker. I have selected some. All of them should be available in Amsterdam.
Sec Symbole / Le Sot de l’ange – white wine – 2020 - Chenin
Quentin Bourse is a young wine producer in the Loire valley, in the Touraine area. He worked with several winegrowers including the Domainne Huet, before launching his domain in 2013, Le Sot de l’Ange (literaly the Idiot of an angel). He makes innovative and seriously extravagant wines.
Sec Symbol is a fruity and dry Chenin with green notes in the nose along with substile apple aroma. Nice minerality balanced by a good acidity with a pomelo flavor. There is also another cuvée, Secsy Symbole made with raisin from Limoux (south of France) Elegant with goat cheese and surprising with cooked oysters Serve at 12°C Price around 23 Euro
Where to find it? Wijn Winkel
Hadouken / Zulu, white wine – 2020 – Mauzac
The Zulu wine project was started in 2015 by Christophe Albero, who unfortunately passed away shortly after. It’s not a “Domaine”, it is not a cave, it’s a project. The goal is to create a sort of independent wine label, where collaboration between local winegrowers is the key. Their cuvées are often ephemeral.
Hadouken is a collaboration between Zulu wine and Gilles Azam from Domaine Les Hautes Terres from the Limoux appellation. Cloudy pale yellow, the nose is between stone and lemon zest. in the mouth the wine has an explosive freshness, it is a lively wine. Nice with garlic or oysters Serve around 12°C Price around 25 Euro
Where to find it? Selection Sauvage
Picapol / Patrick Bouju, Domaine de la Bohème, white wine – 2021 – 100% Picpoul de Pinet
Patrick Bouju is a talented winemaker from the Auvergne region. He works with multiple old grape varieties. This Picapol, is made from raisins grown at Canet in Roussillon. 50 % direct press and 50 % maceration (8 days). This makes a very fresh wine, your mouth will be full of citrus aroma, just like a little sour candy without the sugar. It has a perfect balance between the fruit and the acidity, with a touch of salt. Ideal with some oysters or grilled fish, but nice to drink alone. Server around 12°C Price around 20 euro
Where to find it? Zuiver wijnen
Les Agudes / Fabien Jouves – Mas Del Perié, white wine – 2021 - Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Chardonnay and Sémillon
Fabien Jouves is a young craft winemaker in the Lot department. His vineyard is located at the border of the Cahors and the coteaux du Quercy. He works mostly with Malbec, the dominant grape variety for the Cahors AOP. But he uses also other grape varieties. Les Agudes is a very expressive wine, full of ripe white fruit and some freshness with a citrus touch. You can drink it alone, or with some exotic food Serve around 13°C Price around 18 Euro
Where to find it? Compartir, wijnbar & restaurant
13 vents / Jean Christophe Garnier, White Wine – 2021 – Chenin Blanc
JC Garnier, a former sommelier, is installed in Anjou on a 7 hectares vineyard near the Domaine of the Mosse family.
13 vents is a powerful Chenin, the nose reminds you of acacia, linden, and a touch of candied pear. A gentle acidity balances the aromas, and the flavors stay in the mouth for a long. A very rare Chenin. Can be great with fish in a Beurre Blanc sauce or a light curry Serve around 13° Price around 26 Euro
Quartz / Les Cailloux du Paradis – Claude Courtois – White wine – 2019 – Sauvignon Blanc and Menu Pineau (with other varieties)
Claude Courtois with his son Etienne works on a vineyard (13 hectares) in Sologne (Loire). They work without any chemicals on the Domaine. He is one of the most respected natural winemakers in France. This Quartz cuvée has been aged in oak barrels. The nose gives you a cooked pear, cinnamon, and chili pepper. The mouth gives you a beautiful acidity that amplifies flavors. It is a really rare product. Note this wine can age well, so if you want to drink it, use a carafe. Serve around 13° Price around 40 Euro
Where to find it? Café Twee Prinsen
Marguerite / Matassa – Tom Lubbe, maceration - Muscat Petit Grain, Muscat d’Alexandrie, Macabeu and Grenache Gris.
Tom Lubbe is a South African winemaker installed in Roussillon near Perpignan. His vineyard contains several plots, some at altitude, planted with old vines. Marguerite, is a maceration wine, a white wine vinified like a red. The nose is floral with a touch of cooked peach. Fresh in the mouth, with a floral and salty touch. This wine can age up to 6 years. Grilled Mediterranean fish or poultry Server around 13°C Price around 35 Euro
Where to find it? Café Twee Prinsen
Marin d’eau douce / Pauline Broqua - Les Buis – red wine – 2020 – Fer Servadou, Cabernet Franc et Negret de Banhars
Pauline Broqua is a young winemaker installed in the northern part of the Aveyron Departement (at the cross of Cantal and Lot) in the small Entraygues-sur-Truyère appellation zone. She works with the local variety Fer Servadou, but also with Chenin and Cabernet Franc.
Marin d’eau douce is a digest and elegant red wine. The nose reminds the smell of the local countryside, with black fruits and a touch of spice well balanced, and some light tannins come at the end. Great with some sausages, aligot or an entrecote Server around 15°C Price under 20 Euro
Where to find it? Bolomey
Wabi Sabi / Domaine de Mena - Sébastien Agelet – red wine – 2021 - Cinsault
Sébastien Agelet is a winemaker installed near Perpignan in the Aude department. Until 2012 he worked for a cooperative and then started to he began to vinify his wine.
Cinsault is not often used alone but this bottle will change the way you drink cinsault. This wine is full of blueberries, wild cherries, blackberries, and spices. Very digest, this wine is perfect for an aperitif, wait 20 minutes after the opening and it will gain some power Perfect with charcuteries or any grilled meat Server around 15°C Price around 22 Euro
Where to find it? Selection Sauvage
Minute Papillon / La Vrille et le Papillon - white wine - 2018 - Viognier
Géraldine et Méryl Croizier created the “Domaine La Vrille et le Papillon” in 2012 in Ardèche. Their 5 hectares vineyard is located in Valvignères.
Minute Papillon, 2018 is a powerful and expressif Viognier, the age allows to develop a rich aroma portfolio. The nose is floral and the taste is full of ripe yellow peach with a note of cooked pears and a subtle mineral touch. Perfect with Thaï food, heavy cheese, asparagus, and exotic fruits Serve around 14°C Price around 15 Euro
Where to find it? Wilde Wijnen