Is Bordeaux dead?

Bordeaux, the renowned French wine region, finds itself at a crossroads. Last year, 10 percent of the 110000 hectares of vineyard were doomed to uprooting. Many winemakers struggle to survive, and the prices of ordinary Bordeaux wines have plummeted. Shockingly, some supermarket shelves now display bottles priced at less than four euros—a disheartening reality when you consider that the bottle alone costs more than one euro. These economic woes have even sparked farmer protests in the region.

The situation is multifaceted, and influenced by several factors. We can talk about the export market, the structure of winemaking, where well-known estates coexist with winegrowers selling their grapes to big companies. But there’s a fact, Bordeaux wines don’t sell at the same level as before. Perhaps it’s a matter of taste. The Bordeaux style, once celebrated, now appears somewhat standardized. Not long ago, I favored any wine except Bordeaux.

Is this the end of Bordeaux wine? No, in Bordeaux, many winemakers, conventional or natural, are taking up the challenge with their wines. Here are a few notable examples.

The best-known example is Chateau Le Puy near Saint Emilion. This domain is a pioneer, created during the 17th century, organic since the ’60s. It is an iconic domain for natural wine lovers. Their wines are less structured and woody than in neighboring estates.

Chateau Le Puy is not the only one that brings fresh air to the Bordeaux taste. In the Pauillac appellation, a Japanese winemaker, Osamu Uchida. He started in 2015 with less than one hectare in the Pauillac terroir. Today he works on 2 hectares and produces red wine using Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The wines are floral and fruity.

In Saint Emilion, you can find another pioneer of Natural Wine, David Favard, from Chateau Meylet. He produces Saint Emilion wine using Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Still in Saint Emilion, the Vignobles Pueyo operates 20 hectares in the Saint Emilion and Bordeaux appellation, making red and white wines. This is a very modern version of Bordeaux wines, with Pet Nat and Glouglou wine.

I can’t talk about modern natural wines, without saying something about La Closeries de Moussis. The Project started in 2009 intending to do something different. Wines are fresh, fruity, and digestive.

In the Cadillac, Cotes de Bordeaux appellation, you will find the Domaine Les Carmels, founded in 2010. The Domaine produces red wine using Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. Wines are aromatic, structured, energetic, and digestive.

Near Pessac, you will find Jacques Broustet, a winemaker installed here since 2000 with a small vineyard planted with Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The originality of the wine here is the winemaking process, unlike many other wines, only stainless tanks are used.

Finally, the last producer on this short list is a winery located in the city of Bordeaux, Les Chais du port de la Lune. Grapes come from everywhere in France and the wine is made here, so you can have a blend of Merlot and Gamay.

So, while Bordeaux faces challenges, these passionate winemakers keep their spirit alive. Bordeaux wine may evolve, but it’s far from extinction.