Chasselas

Unless you’ve spent your entire life on a desert island in the Pacific Ocean or in a cave in the middle of nowhere, you’re probably familiar with the Chasselas grape variety. However, you likely know it as a premium, golden table grape you saw in supermarkets rather than a wine grape.

It’s a paradox: these round, golden, and sweet grapes are more often used as a dessert rather than for wine production. There are a few exceptions: In the west part of Switzerland, in Savoie around Lake Geneva, Chasselas is the main (and sometimes the only) grape variety; in the Pouilly-sur-Loire appellation, it is also the main variety (sometimes blended with Sauvignon Blanc); in Alsace, it is an accessory variety, and in Baden, Germany, where it is known as Gutedel.

However, Chasselas plays a major role in viticulture to compare grape varieties. It is central to the Pulliat classification, which classifies grape varieties based on their ripening date compared to an early grape variety—Chasselas. It serves as a standard in viticulture, with many varieties maturing either a few days later or budding earlier than Chasselas. All grape varieties are chasing Chasselas, grapes are defined according to the usual maturity date of Chasselas. With climate change, this classification became more important.

But Chasselas is used to make wine generally a light white wine with a neutral taste, allowing the terroir to shine through. Switzerland is the main region for Chasselas wine, though it remains off the radar, with only 2 or 3 percent of the wine exported. The majority of production occurs in the western part of the country.

This part of the country has been producing wine since the Celtic era. Analysis of fossilized pollen shows that vines were present 500 years BC, and monks from Burgundy established a monastery in the region during the 6th century.

Before the phylloxera outbreak, 35,000 hectares of vines were cultivated in the two main cantons, Vaud and Valais. Today, 16,000 hectares of vines are planted in the western part of the country. The cantons of Geneva, Vaud, and Valais produce around 70% of Switzerland’s wine. The geography of these three cantons makes them the extreme north of the Rhône Valley.

The microclimate in these areas allows for the cultivation of varieties like Merlot, Syrah, Gamay, or Cabernet Sauvignon, though Chasselas remains the main variety for white wine. But the most important part is that the terroir is often more highlighted than the grape variety itself. Chasselas have different profiles reflecting the diversity of the region.

Switzerland has an appellation system similar to the French one, with 17 AOCs for the Vaud Canton, 8 for the Valais, and 23 for Geneva. Many of these appellations are classified as Premier Cru, highlighting specific terroirs from villages or hills. Almost all the appellations use Chasselas, and thanks to the region’s soil diversity, they all have distinct flavors.

Some natural wine references. The Cave du Rouge Gorge, Chasselas. Domaine Château L’Evêque, Les Lavandes (AOC Genève). Domaine du Chambet, Primeur (a vin nouveau with Chasselas). Domaine de la Ville de Morges Parcelle 900 AOC Vaud grand cru. Domaine Piccard Daley-Lavaux, Lavaux Grand Cru. Ô Fâya Farm, Fendant Valais.

To add some confusion and fun to the Swiss wine appellation system, there are some particularities. In the Valais canton, Chasselas is called Fendant. Also in Geneva, the AOC Genève is partly located in France, 10% of the vineyard is in France, somewhere around the border.

France is the second, though more modest, producer of Chasselas, primarily in the border region with Switzerland, in Savoie. Savoie is a modest wine region in France with multiple terroirs, producing fascinating wines. Like Switzerland, Savoie has multiple microclimates, one of them is the Lake Geneva (locally “le Lac Léman”). Like on the other side of the border, the lake generates warmer weather than the rest of the region. Around the lake, in the French part, there are several appellations—Crépy, Marignan, Marin, and Ripaille—where Chasselas is the main variety. Each appellation has its unique taste with distinctive notes of juniper and light honey. This part of Savoie is home to several natural winemakers like Dominique Lucas (Les Vignes du Paradis), La Vigne Sauvage, Damien Bastian Goddard, and Alexis Tondeur.

Chasselas is also found in one unexpected place outside the upper Rhône Valley: the Loire Valley, specifically Pouilly-sur-Loire. This appellation shares the same area as the Pouilly Fumé appellation and is adjacent to Sancerre, sharing the same type of flint and limestone soil. Wines made with Sauvignon Blanc use the Pouilly Fumé appellation, while those made with Chasselas get the Pouilly-sur-Loire appellation.

One notable wine from this appellation is Pouilly-sur-Loire from Jonathan Didier Pabiot, a very mineral version of Chasselas.

Chasselas can be versatile, producing both light, young wines and powerful wines that can age for years. The taste mainly depends on the terroir, making Chasselas worth discovering.