Chenin blanc

The Chenin Blanc variety is one of the top international grape varieties. From the Loire Valley in France, Chenin was adopted in many countries around the world with more than 35000 hectares planted in the world. Chenin is reputed to be difficult to work with, but it did not impair its popularity. Maybe because of Chenin’s ability to produce a large variety of wines, sparkling, dry wine, orange wine, and even sweet wine. Chenin can go from sparkling to sweet faster than a sommelier can say “terroir.” Chenin has a long history, and it is linked to the terroir where it grows and gives many different expressions following the terroir where the wine is made.

For a long time, the origin of Chenin wasn’t clear. On one hand, the literature tells us that Chenin appeared in the Anjou region (Loire Valley, France) during the 9th century. Starting from its region of birth it propagates itself to the entire Loire Valley. On the other hand, if it’s true that vines were present in Anjou before the 9th century, nothing tells us it was the Chenin variety. After all, one of the first written references of Chenin can be found in the 25th chapter of Gargantua by François Rabelais.

Thanks to modern biology, tracing Chenin Blanc’s family tree is as clear as a glass of wine. The DNA analysis proves that one of the Chenin ancestors is the Savagnin Blanc. Despite its Germanic origin, Savagnin blanc was found in the Loire region, exactly Orléans during the 12th century (scientist found a grape seed from this age and was able to extract the DNA). The second parent of Chenin Blanc is unclear. What is clear, is the Chenin Blanc was widely used in the Loire Valley from the 15th century, and authors could describe the taste we know today.

Chenin’s tasting profile depends on multiple factors. The first one is the climate. In colder climate gives less ripe fruits than in a warmer climate. Chenin typically produces aromas of lemon, apples, pears, honey, and quinces with a high acidity and middle body.

Chenin can be as versatile as a Swiss Army knife, producing wines that range from light and lean to bold and sparkling, But the taste of the Chenin depends on the terroir where it grows and the local traditions associated with these terroirs.

Historically, France is the place where Chenin was planted first, but during the 17th century, Chenin started to be planted in South Africa. Later it appeared in Australia, Argentina, and California.
From its birthplace in Anjou (Loire Valley, France), the vineyard expanded towards Touraine. In this area, Chenin gives beautiful expression, with dry wine in appellations like Savanières, Vouvray, and Montlouis sur Loire. Wines are complex, with tarts fruits associated with honey and sometimes minerality. They can age for several years. The taste profile depends on the appellation and the winemaker’s talent. The same area produces wine with more residual sugar and also sparkling wine. They can be very dry (extra-brut) to dry (demi-sec).

The region produces also very delicate dessert wines by often using grapes with noble rot (botrytis) or by letting grapes dry on the vine like in the Coteaux du Layon.

My preference is for dry wines:

  • Nicolas Joly with the Clos de la Coulée de Serrant
  • 13 Vents from Jean Christophe Garnier
  • Chenin wines from Domaine de la Taille aux Lup
  • La Coutûre from Le Sot de l’ange.

Loire is not the only region to grow and use Chenin in France. Sud Ouest and Languedoc can use Chenin Blanc, you can even find it in Coteaux du Lyonnais. In the Limoux appellation, winemaker add chenin in their blanquette and crémant. In Bergerac, Chenin is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. The Aveyron appellation, Entraygues-le-fel uses Chenin as the principal variety. But this Chenin, used for centuries, has some local characteristics. Wines from this appellation are a little fruitier and very deep

My preference:

  • Pauline Broqua, les Brumes from Entraygues-le-fel

The same Chenin vines that were found in the Loire for centuries have been grown in South Africa since the 17th century. The story is more complex than traditional vine migration. In 1685, persecution against the protestant restarted. Many protestants emigrated to Hollande and then to South Africa, and some of them were winemakers. These French protestants established themselves in the Franschoek (the French Corner). They came to this area with their wine culture and their process.

Most of the vineyards are located in the Cape region. Chenin is locally known as Steen. Most of the Chenin produced here are quite generic. The taste is very similar to the Loire vaValleyaste, with more ripe fruits and some touch of tarragon. Some winemakers try to express their terroir, similar to what is made in the Loire Valley. The taste is more on tropical fruits and honey.

My recommendation:

  • Johan Meyer, Force Céléste

Many other wine regions use Chenin, like Spain, Italy, Argentina, and Mexico. In California, where Chenin was replaced by Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in the middle of the 20th century, the grape made a comeback a few years ago.

Chenin Blanc is a very versatile variety, with many styles of wines, and several flavors it can offer a lot of sensations. Try it, you will enjoy it.

Last words: it’s Chenin Blanc, not just Chenin, because there’s a Chenin Noir lurking in the shadows.! It is simply the Pinneau d’Aunis, and it is not related to Chenin Blanc.