Wines from Savoie

Savoie wines have long been considered among the least appreciated by French drinkers. To many, they’ve been dismissed as too acidic, lacking finesse, or unremarkable—a perception shaped by cliché, and clichés tend to stick. This reputation has roots. In the 1970s and 1980s, as ski resorts flourished, some producers began selling wines that were prematurely bottled to meet the growing demand. That decision left a lasting impression.

Like many French wine regions, Savoie is far from uniform. It’s a constellation of small vineyards, each with distinct grape varieties, traditions, and styles. This complexity is well understood by natural wine enthusiasts, especially those outside France, as well as by winemakers who sell their wines abroad. But for the average drinker, these nuances often go unnoticed.

Ancient Origins

Wine has been part of Savoie’s story since Roman times. Roman soldiers and citizens were surprised to find vineyards thriving here. The Allobroges, a Gallic tribe, were already producing wine three centuries before Julius Caesar. Roman colonization improved viticulture, and with the development of roads, Allobroge wines gained recognition. Pliny the Elder even referenced them in his Naturalis Historia.

After the fall of Rome, monks preserved the vineyard. Until the 19th century, the vineyards expanded to nearly 20,000 hectares. Most of the wine was consumed locally, with small quantities reaching Geneva, Italy, and Aix-en-Provence. Quality was uneven, though wines from Chambery and Thonon stood out.

From the Annexation to the AOC appelation

Until 1860, Savoie was not part of France. That year, it was annexed and divided into two departments: Savoie and Haute-Savoie. Wine began circulating more widely within France, but the region was hit by phylloxera in 1877, which limited its growth and visibility. After World War II, the creation of the AOC Savoie brought more structure. However, the appellation allowed chaptalization, and many wines were sold too young, further complicating the region’s reputation.

A Turning Point

A real shift began about 25 years ago. A new generation of winemakers emerged, focused on quality and respect for terroir—similar to what had happened earlier in Jura. Despite its proximity to Jura, Savoie is distinct. It’s a mosaic of appellations, micro-terroirs, and grape varieties. Geographically and stylistically, it shares more with Geneva and Valais to the north, and the Rhône Valley to the south. The soils made with granite, limestone, and schist, support varieties like Chasselas from Switzerland and Roussanne from the Rhône. The climate ranges from continental to alpine.

Appellations and IGP

Savoie has three AOC appellations:

• Vin de Savoie, covering Savoie and Haute-Savoie, with or without geographic denominations
• Roussette de Savoie, limited to Altesse grapes, with four geographic denominations
• Vin de Seyssel, spanning Ain and Haute-Savoie, using Molette (also called Mondeuse Blanche) and Altesse

There’s also one IGP: Vin des Allobroges, which includes Savoie, Haute-Savoie, and Ain (the link between Savoie and Jura).

The Mosaic of Styles

Vin de Savoie is the most recognized appellation, but its styles vary widely depending on the geographic denomination.

Lac Léman

In the north, around Lake Geneva (Lac Léman), Chasselas dominates. Only white wines are produced here, and like their Swiss counterparts, they age well. Denominations include Marin, Ripaille, Marignan, and Crépy. Producers may also use the IGP Vin des Allobroges, though Chasselas remains the key variety. Some parcels in this area are part of the Swiss appellation system.

Arve Valley

South of Lake Geneva lies the Arve Valley, home to the Ayze denomination. This is the stronghold of the Gringet grape, which produces white wines, still and sparkling, with floral and mineral profiles. It’s a tiny vineyard, covering only a few hectares.

Chablais: Jongieux and Chautagne

On the western edge of the region, in Chablais, lie Jongieux and Chautagne—the two largest vineyards in the appellation. They produce white wines from Jacquère and reds from Mondeuse, Gamay, Pinot Noir, and occasionally Cabernet Franc.

Chambéry and Surroundings

The Chambéry area includes five denominations. Three, Abymes, Apremont, and Saint-Jeoire du Prieuré—focus on white wines made from Jacquère. Apremont and Abymes are relatively large and often found in supermarkets. Saint-Jeoire du Prieuré is smaller, with wines that show greater minerality. Chignin produces whites from Jacquère and Bergeron (Roussanne), and reds from Mondeuse Noire.

Combe de Savoie

The Combe de Savoie lies between Chambéry and Albertville in the Isère Valley. Montmélian and Cruet produce mineral, fruity whites from Jacquère. Arbin and Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte focus on reds from Mondeuse Noire. Arbin’s wines are spicy and structured, while Saint-Jean’s are more floral and fruit driven.

Key Grape Varieties

Here are the principal grapes of Savoie:

• Mondeuse Noire: Dark, spicy, with violet and raspberry aromas
• Persan: Nearly extinct; spicy and structured
• Jacquère: Fresh, with soil-driven variation
• Altesse: Rich and spicy whites
• Chasselas: Light to powerful whites
• Roussanne: Known locally as Bergeron; elegant and textured
• Gringet:Floral and mineral
• Mondeuse Blanche: Not related to Mondeuse Noire; fresh with aging potential
• Molette: Found in Seyssel; rich and fresh

Other varieties include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Aligoté, Pinot Gris, and Veltliner. Even more can be found under the Vin de France label.

But what makes wines from Savoie so desirable today? I have known the region for a very long time, and I have never felt such a passion for Savoy wine as I have over the past fifteen years.

A New Generation of winemakers

What makes Savoie wines so exciting today? I’ve known the region for years, and the passion surrounding its wines has never been stronger than in the past fifteen years. Since the late 1980s, a new wave of natural winemakers has brought elegance, purity, and a fresh identity to the region.

Domaine Giachino (Isère): Wines made without modern oenology; fresh, low alcohol, and pure. Varieties include Altesse, Jacquère, Mondeuse, and Persan.

Domaine H (Chignin): Sukhwan Ha, a Korean winemaker trained by Pierre Overnoy and Manu Houillon, produces both white and red wines.

Domaine Belluard (Ayze): Dominique Belluard elevated Savoie winemaking with precision and care. His “Les Perles du Mont Blanc” remains iconic. He passed away in 2021

Les Vins de Belema Yann Pernuit worked with Dominique Belluard and with the Chateau de Mérande. He started his domaine in 2019. He works with local grappes, Gringet, Altesse, Etraire de la Dhuy and other on 5.5 hectares in Ayze. The wine are complexe and aromatic. One wine, Epsilon Virginis, Altesse.

Les Vignes du Paradis (Thonon): Produces high-quality wines that can age from Chasselas, Chenin, Pinot Gris, and more.

Ca Boit Libre (Thonon): Damien Bastian’s 4-hectare domaine, founded in 2018, uses Chasselas, Altesse, Gamay, and Pinot Noir.

Domaine des Ardoisières (Cevins): A standout in France. Schiste Blanc blends Jacquère, Roussanne, Mondeuse Blanche, and Pinot Gris. Améthyste Rouge, a blend of Mondeuse and Persan, is floral and complex. The domaine is located near Cevins. In 1987, the city replanted several hundred parcels with vines. The domain uses several of these parcels.

Domaine des Côtes Rousses (Arbin): Founded in 2011. La Pente (100% Jacquère) is fresh and mineral. Le Coteaux de la Mort (Mondeuse in the Saint Jean de La Porte denomination) is structured with dark fruit and spice.

Domaine des 13 Lunes (Abymes and Apremont): Started in 2017. Sparkling Jacquère with lemon and apple notes; L’Hirondelle (Altesse) offers a complex profile.

Jean-Yves Péron (Albertville): Cultivates very ancient vines on steep slopes. Cotillon des Dames is an orange wine from Jacquère, Altesse, and Roussanne. Vers la Maison Rouge is a light red from Mondeuse and Gamay.

Savoie’s revival isn’t limited to wine. The region also boasts craft breweries, with Mont Salève being one of the most recognized.

Once overlooked, Savoie is becoming one of France’s most exciting wine regions, thanks to a passionate new generation of winemakers who are redefining its identity. Their commitment to quality is producing wines that are refreshingly vibrant, elegantly balanced, and expressive of the region’s remarkable diversity. Each bottle is a testament to Savoie’s unique mosaic of terroirs and captivating range of flavors.